Photo Essay: A Felucca Ride in Cairo

I have been to Cairo so many times but never actually managed to ride a felucca. For those who don't know, a felucca is a Nile river boat. Thankfully, the local felucca stand was just in front of the intercontinental hotel so after braving two death defying moments when I had to crash across the two roads to get to the river bank, went down to check out the feluccas. The photographs aren't as good as I forgot my big hairy flash and had to take photographs on a rolling and pitching water surface.

Here is the lovely boat.

With furled sails.

Got up into the felucca and there is the big ass tiller. The curved iron bar is to move the mast and so that the boatman can steer and move the sails singlehandedly.

Here’s the man himself. He smoked like a chimney. And hot damn, i so wanted one. An ex-smoker myself, I have to keep away from smokers lest I get tempted, lol. But here in the middle of the river, not much I could do..

Various hotels around the river banks.

The Cairo tower and Novotel.

Four Seasons.

Grand Hyatt.

The river was oily and deep heavy swells were running through the water. Warm water as well.

One of the big river boats on the shore, party time.



Looking back at the bridge and the intercontinental hotel on the right hand side.



Hey, its another felucca on the river.

Another caterwauling river boat filled up to the gills with tourists, blaring music and garish lights.


This didn't come out right, but its supposed to be a fountain. I am afraid it wasn't fun. There were too many lights on the river, too many hotels, too much noise, really didn't get the feeling. I have boated down several rivers ranging from the Mississippi, Thames, Seine, Rhine, Ganges, Yamuna, Brahmaputra, etc. etc. and usually river voyages speak to me, but not this time. Perhaps I need to try somewhere which is less crowded and quieter perhaps up near Luxor or some place like that. Here is the slideshow with more photographs and higher resolution. 

Photo Essay: Mosque of Sultan Hassan and other mosques in Cairo

After peeking at the Citadel in Cairo, I could see some huge imposing mosques just underneath the Citadel, so I hastened across to check them out. This involved me walking for about a kilometre or so..And I am glad I did. Got a chance to experience Cairo a bit closer and far away from the tourist traps.

This was the first mosque that I saw on the left as I came around the bend.

Two completely different domes.

And two totally different minarets as well. Any idea what this is?

Cats and kittens.

Fair point there, eh?

I guess this is a work in progress..

Stopped over to grab some water from a tea shop..

These kittens were about a day or two old I am guessing, their eyes hadn't even opened..

Turn the corner and you see the citadel on the hill.

Another view of the citadel and the pathetic French Clock tower. This is dating back to the 1850’s and was a gift to Muhammad Ali from the French. And since the day it was installed, it never worked. heh.

The palm trees had these nappies around them. Very curious, not very sure why this was so.

The walls surrounding the Citadel were built around this protruding striated giant rock.

This was some kind of a tomb, but there were no signs anywhere near to refer to it. Not sure what this is about either.

Here are the two mosques, Mosque of Sultan Hassan and Mosque of ar Rifai. Both of them are massive, seriously massive and huge. Imagine a huge pyramid but turned into a mosque and you will have an idea what this felt to me.  But it was closed and I couldn't get in, so had to be content with peeking around the al Rifai Mosque. From all what I read, the Mosque of Sultan Hassan is really beautiful, but then had to see this poor apology of a mosque.

This is quite imposing indeed with tall minarets. Very tall arches cover the doors.

 

This structure was made few hundred years after the Sultan Hassan Mosque and the difference is shocking. The Sultan Hassan mosque is big but has very delicate carvings and it is proportional. The al Rifai mosque is supposed to be the Royal Mosque, with the last series of the Egyptian royal family buried in here.  The Last Shah of Iran is also buried in here. It is sadly decrepit I am afraid. The windows are sad and droopy (compare the windows with the Al Azhar mosque), the pillars are dingy, unadorned and look very basic. The walls are pockmarked and decaying away. Huge cracks could be seen on the walls. A good shove would put paid to this mosque.



It looked like a derelict building from all corners.

 
Here’s a close-up of the stalactite type of carvings on top of the arches. 
 
 

As I said, massive arches over massive doorways. Supposedly to impress the natives. Ummm, doesnt really work, does it?

There was a little boy peeking through the closed wooden door.

 

A rather lonely pigeon sitting high up on the wall.

 

The ceiling was decorated but it was so high up, hardly anything could be seen.

Mother of Pearl inlaid doors.


One door was open so I could peek in, but wasn't impressed, I am afraid. On the other hand, this mosque which was in front of the al Rifai mosque was much more prettier and beautiful.

 
 

Made out of striped red and white stone (desperate for a good shower to clean this up), one can see this Mamluk era mosque is much finer, much better designed and altogether prettier. I loved the double barrelled minaret and how it was arranged, soaring steps to get up to the door and the whole building was well balanced.

A shaded large window was there on the corner and it looked almost like a house or living quarters on the mosque. Very nice. Here is the slideshow with more photographs and higher resolution.

Photo Essay: I met God again in Cairo

This is where I again met God. But I rush ahead as usual. Just to the side of the Khan el Khalili market is the Sayyidna al Hussein Mosque. Perhaps the most holy of holies in Cairo, it is reputed to contain the head of Al Hussein, the grandson of Prophet Mohammad. The Umayyad’s then took over the Muslim world after the death of the Prophet, but Ali, his son in law, took up arms and died in a fight. His grandson, Hussein ibn Ali,  lead a revolt but was killed in the battle of Karbala in 680 AD, and after a rather riotous period and confusing myth making, his head landed up in Cairo. Or so they say. Found it rather interesting that his head was also buried for a long time in Israel. Anyway, the story is confused, his head is simultaneously in Karbala in Iraq, in Damascus in Syria, in Ashkelon in Israel and in Cairo in Egypt. This mosque also contains the oldest complete manuscript of the Quran. I didn't get to see this wonderful book, but curiously the photographs on the link do not show any diacritical marks. Funny, that..

Anyway, back to the photographs.

Coming out of the Khan el Khalili market and you see the side of this big building.

 

There are very large plaques on the side of the building with Quranic sayings on the side.

The mosque is in front of the Al Azhar Mosque with the distinctive double barrelled minaret, but more about this mosque later on.

Turning the corner, I see the entrance. Its a rather severe building. Anyway, I was a bit nervous because the guide book said that non Muslims are not allowed inside the building but then, I figured that I can do a lite Richard Burton on this. So took off my shoes and wandered in.

The inside of the mosque is lit by restful green lights, the roof is supported by highly polished marble columns. Then I sidled up to the entrance to the mausoleum.

The doors are wooden covered with silver work all over it. Very fine work and the entire place of smelling beautifully of incense.

The silver grave is surrounded by these lamps.



It is made out of silver, with Arabic suras engraved on the panels and geometrical patterns on the pillars.

You can see the grave inside the silver grills.

One side of the room is cordoned off for the ladies, the men are on the other side.

Here is the minbar.

There were many pilgrims who were sleeping there. Apparently this is done so that they get dreams from Hussein and get guidance on how to go forward or solve their problems.

This man was sitting there reading what presumably a religious book.



Here is the minaret of the mosque.

 

Stepping back into the park in front of the mosque, here’s the full shot of the mosque. The mosque itself is not spectacular, but the actual grave was amazing. There were quite a lot of people all in that small room, but there was a huge sense of peace and quiet. I was humbled standing in front of the shrine. Almost felt like crying. Extraordinary feeling. I prayed for the well being of the children and prayed for Hussein to look after them. Promised to come back again to pray to him. I found God again here. Blessed. Totally blessed. I could almost feel that I was standing under the wings of an angel, I knew I was safe there and He wanted to hear me unburden myself to him. A warm welcoming place, a place of godliness, and a place of mercy, happiness and love. 

And here is the full slideshow with higher resolutions.